Andrea's Greek Journal

Well, here I am on day 15 of my journey in Greece. Back in Athens after a quick jaunt to the seaside as well as Tripoli. I don’t know if I would recommend the town of Porto Heli to anyone. The location was loaded with all the cliché’s one would want on a summer vacation; the quaint little bay, dotted with lazy sailboats floating in a sea of warm sun and deep blue waters, little cafes and tavernas serving red mullets and local wine. What more could you ask for? My problem with this town is that the people working there seemed like they were not there. As though they all wished they were somewhere else. They mechanically served you as if they were sleep walking.

I can only assume that its related to the economy and that they are not being paid much and therefore are financially forced to do what they are doing.

There was one restaurant in Porto Heli at the end of the pier called the “Kavouraki” which means small crab, where there was a small sign of life. The girl who owned the place or was dating the owner came out eagerly to tell us the menu and sell us on the place. She did a good job. We were convinced and took our chances and had a wonderful dinner.

The next day we took off for Tripoli. Upon arrival at the Hotel Artemis, I immediately decided I would not send anyone to stay there. The man at the front desk looked at me as though I was the most demanding spoiled rotten brat when I asked if we may have help with our luggage. How could we? After all we were also holding a sleeping child! My 65 year old mother went to the car and retrieved them herself and he then sluggishly followed her, picked up one piece of luggage and dropped it sideways in front of the elevator for me to maneuver a way to pick it up. It was a great beginning.

Upon entering the room, I felt like I was in some sleazy love affair, willing to go anywhere for a bed, and then realized my mate was my three year old son (thank god), the room however did not disappear. It had carpet tile (imagine that) I never even new it existed! Carpet tile, in a lovely shade of gray, the color of the sky right before the storm. It was lovely. There were four single beds. Two were actually cots, not beds. And two towels the size of hand towels. How would I bathe?

Lets move into the bathroom now. In order to make it to the toilet, you had to squeeze yourself against the sink and close the door, and presto, a toilet! Next to that was a shower. A square fiberglass thing with a handheld shower head.

Now this is being on vacation. Definitly worth, stressing yourself out for a month, shopping for just the right outfit, getting to the airport two hour ahead of time, traveling 15hours, arriving in Athens and then driving all the way to Tripoli to be greeted by the hotel of doom!

Yet the answer of the man at the front desk, after I inquired as to why I was deceived when I asked if they had had a renovation and they had not, yet they more than double the price was, “This is not like the other hotels you stay at, you should not expect anything more!” Interesting…. So I say to him, “ shall I at least expect a bath towel large enough for someone other than the cast of the Wizard of Oz in the scene with the munchkins?” Is it too much to expect  decent lighting?

Let’s just say for the sake of family we dealt with it. Well, it’s more than that. I truly like shopping in the one horse town. The boutiques are fantastic. You can find table linens at phenomenal prices, in linen and silk, and the saleslady actually is thrilled to take down her entire inventory to show you everything and help you get just the right one. Women’s clothing is very up to the moment and inexpensive. Let’s not forget music. You can buy, at this little music store called “Music On” the most current in CDs that you can’t even find at Amazon’s web site.

In addition, you can get an excellent Cappucino Freddo anywhere in town.

Food is very good as well. Pizza is better than any pizzeria I have come across in the states, and of course the local cuisine is outstanding. At Klimataria, you can get a fantastic meal from freshly grilled meats to Moussaka, Lamb Fricasse in Egg Lemon Sauce, to Coq au vin.

The shopping was good the food was good, the scenery was excellent, especially if you like mountains. The only down fall was truly the hotel.

The grand finale was the finaly day when we came down and the woman at the front desk asked me, “So where is your husband? Why isn’t he with you?” and in addition to that she didn’t take credit cards.

We paid cash, I asked her where her husband was (tough to find a good man in Tripoli she says), and we happily took off for Athens.

I am sitting happily typing on my laptop in my bright white cozy apartment overlooking a little hill across the way, quite happy to be back home.

AL ITALIA

I like trying different airlines. Al Italia fit the requirements – an overseas carrier that had an affordable fare.  One great thing – they had nice wide seats with plenty of legroom! I don’t fit the size dimensions of the average American woman. I stand 5’ 10" and have a wide bottom. The seats were great for me – I didn’t feel like I was sharing the next person’s seat with them! My legs are pretty long too – and I actually had legroom and didn’t ride with my knees up my nose. My dinner tray was level also. It’s hard to eat and drink when you’re food keeps sliding off. That was not a problem on this trip. Coming home I actually got to sleep in two seats – my sister had a row of three seats to herself. I like returning on a weekday – the planes are seldom full.

Movies on a plane can be either really bad or really good. I got to see The Mummy. It was late at night and I chose to watch it in Italian. Now I don’t speak Italian. I do think it is a beautiful language. So see this mental picture – lots of action, chase scenes, Egyptian sites, sand everywhere --- and everybody is speaking Italian! This movie had more action than anything and it was a movie that you could watch without words and still understand. The fact that it was in Italian just made me feel like I was really traveling.

I am one of those people that like plane food. Dinner was pasta, veal, tapioca pudding (reminded me of my grandmother), salad, olive oil and vinegar dressing. And coffee. Like coffee should be made. Strong and earthy. I knew I was on my way to Europe – by the taste of the coffee alone.

Athens

I stepped of the airplane and thought I was in the 1960’s. The airport is very old. We made our way to the baggage claim and there was our luggage! Both of us had packed relatively light – one suitcase that rolled and also turned into a backpack if we needed it to. Never know when you might run into lots of stairs. Both of our bags also had a space to attach a daypack to. We used our daypacks as carry-ons.

Of course I had to do a little shopping- bought only a phone card (the only way you can make phone calls in Greece) and some postcards.

We headed to the currency place to get some Greek drachmas and then to the GTNO to find directions to our hotel. Considered taking a bus. Stepped outside. Jees, it was hot! The thought of waiting for and riding a full bus with our luggage and us was not appealing. There was a line of cabs about one block long. All of them screaming for us to ride with them. However, there were signs posted that said to take the first cab in line. We get to the top of the line and there are two cars side by side! We took the one that spoke the best English. I had been warned about the cab drivers in Athens. That they were crooks, rude, and would try to take you for all you had. So I knew it was about 3000 drachmas to our destination. Both the driver and I were happy.

FIRST VIEW OF ATHENS

I knew Athens was a big city. I knew they had smog. I didn’t know everyone drove like maniacs (and I’m from Chicago and am familiar with wild drivers). The cars are all small – no Lincoln’s or Cadillac’s came into my view. The motorscooter drivers take their lives into their hands every minute they drive. They scoot in and out of traffic and follow no rules. For that matter – most drivers follow no rules either. If they can run a light, they do. Who cares about a stop sign? Exhaust fumes dominate the air. I felt like I had been in a mechanics garage all day.

The city is right on the Aegean Sea. There is a mix of old buildings with buildings built in the 60’s. By old buildings I do mean those built over 2,000 years ago, over 100 years ago also.

I was in Athens Greece! I couldn’t read the signs, because I couldn’t speak Greek. Most of the street signs do have English on them as well. I also had my trusty Streetwise Athens map. I think I looked at it in Athens once. Our cab driver seemed to know where we were going so we rode along and were tourists.

FIRST NIGHT IN ATHENS

I wore the black dress. Sleeveless, draping material that fell to my lower calf, slit up the side to the knee. Looks incredible on any sized woman. Spectacular on me.

First thing – went to the rooftop of the Attalos for the view. Man………we saw the entire city! The Acropolis was in the middle of the light show – so there were purple lights and yellow lights and blue lights moving around the entire Acropolis. Could have been a movie I was in the middle of.

The bartender made me a "blue Wave" – gin, blue curacao, campari. Hated it. Cruz enjoyed two drinks that night.

Since we were all dressed up, it was time to explore the Plaka. Our evening adventure started in the old Plaka area. It was about nine in the evening on a Sunday. In the States, people are at home, preparing to go to work the next day. Here there were streets full of people, laughing and carrying on as if there was no such thing as a Monday. All of the shops were still open. Small closet size storefronts with half of the merchandise displayed on the sidewalk. Postcards and T-shirts and plenty of souvenirs. And sarongs. A long piece of material you can tie around your waist like a skirt or wear over your shoulders on a cool evening. I succumbed and bought a beautiful azure blue sarong with white suns on it. This was my second favorite souvenir from Greece.

We strolled past a carpet store and ventured in. A cute young Greek man approached us. I should say he approached me. And tried to hit on me! Please understand that when I travel with my sister I am used to taking the backseat. She is the thin beautiful one. I am the larger, more voluptuous one. In the States, her type of beauty is more looked for by men. So this cute young man (and I am being generous by calling him a man) trying to hit on me was not something I knew how to react to. The conversation ended with me promising to visit again.

As we strolled this tall Greek man engaged us in conversation. He wanted to know if we knew all the U.S. capitals. We didn’t remember them. He did. His name was Emmanuel the capital man. He was from Crete. Emmanuel determined we were probably hungry and he knew this great taverna that served the best Crete food. He kindly escorted us to Taverna Kalokerinos.

Where I met Gus, my first Greek waiter. It’s a huge place with a stage on the Southern wall. Greeting us was live Greek folk music. I learned that night the difference between Greeks enjoying their music and foreigners pretending to have a good time. As I need water to live, the Greeks need music. They express joy and sadness in their music and dance. They also tell the stories of their people. We saw women get up and dance by themselves, being so moved by the music. There was also a heavyset older Greek man that danced around a plate to a slow moving song. I wanted to cry, it was so expressive and sad.

Back to Gus, you could say he lavished attention on me. He was an older Greek man and cute in his own way. Gus decided I should dance. Cruzanne and I had agreed that on this trip it would be a trip of "no regrets". So after my glass of retsina I decided I didn’t want to go home and say "damn, why didn’t I get up there and dance?" So I looked at Cruz and said "I’m dancing." The look on her face was worth it! I jumped on stage, closed my eyes and swirled and knelt and smiled and danced. The band was playing for me alone. And it didn’t matter that I was on this stage in front of strangers. I was not afraid. For just a moment, I felt Greek and let the music move me. Heavenly it was. Gus even threw a plate! And when I was done the crowd was clapping!!! Yeah, no regrets on that one.

That evening we had some ouzo, a Greek salad, saganaki, mousaka, bread and drank retsina. At the cost of about $30 apiece, it was a cheap evening of entertainment.

We left the taverna and started to look for some nightlife. Someone on the street told us to look for Astro. A small club for young people with loud music. We finally found it and even made our way in. However, it was wall to wall people and just too crowded for me. I think the fact that we had been on a plane for nine hours and roaming the streets of Athens all evening and we had to leave early in the morning made me feel that it was too crowded. Just an excuse to go home to bed at 2 a.m.

We got up early and had breakfast at the Attalos – coffee, orange juice, pound cake, rolls, jam, ham and cheese. Carb heaven, but kept us going all day.

FIRST DAY ON ANTIPAROS

We have a flock of ducks that live on the beach under our window. Sitting on the balcony you can see a white church with a blue dome, an old windmill that still works and small boats in the water. This first morning we take our time getting ready for the day. It is warm, but not unbearable. A short stroll and we are at Yanni’s. There are wooden seats and small tables outside of a storefront restaurant. People don’t sit inside; in fact there is nowhere to sit inside. We have fried eggs, bacon and bread and of course a cappuccino. All for only 2,000 drachmas.

It is late morning and the shops are beginning to open. I found a beautiful sarong for 2,500 drachmas and wore it often while on the island. We make our way back to the port and have a cup of Greek coffee at Romvi’s Café. What a pleasurable way to spend an hour – sitting by the sea watching people drinking a Greek coffee.

Our friends, Andrea and Van, are Greek and live in Chicago. Andrea’s cousins, Eleni and Dimitri live on Antiparos. This is how we found this wonderful island. It was now time to find Dimitri. Dimitri owns a restaurant, the Mouragio (Greek for moor). The Mouragio is just off the port to the right. It is a square building with an outdoor courtyard. The restaurant is first class and only open for dinner. WE stroll by and the doors are open so we wander in. Dimitri is sitting at the bar trying to fix his coffee machine. I played a little game on him, addressing him by name (he looks just like his cousin Andrea said he would – glasses, bald and Greek). He wonders just who in the hell we are, but is polite and asks how we are. I finally make proper introductions and he is pleased we have come to his island. He makes us Greek coffee (can you tell I love the stuff?). We chat for a few moments and promise to come back for dinner, around 8 or 9.

It’s on to the beach! We take a walk. Everyone walks on Antiparos. There are a few cars and some mopeds. Mostly people walk. On our way I pick up some water paints and a shot glass. There is a lady that works at the beach renting chairs. We rent a chair for 900 drachmas. I paint a picture of Cruz and I watching the action on the beach. It is quiet today. I find out later that by four most people have gone back for a late nap. This is a habit that lots of Greeks partake in. A two-hour nap in the late afternoon prepares you for the evening. The water is azure blue and mesmerizing. I think if you watch it long enough Poseidon will pop his head up and grin at you.

FIRST NIGHT IN ANTIPAROS

Dimitri insisted on giving us a tour of the nightlife on the island after dinner at the Mouragio.

So off we went, laughing down the main street. At the end of the street is the town square. Just to the right of that is Luke’s bar. I have no clue who Luke is, but he wasn’t there. It is a short narrow bar, with a jukebox and a dartboard on one side and the bar and some stools on the other side. Working the bar is Costas. A handsome young man, well versed in imbibing. I felt I had had enough hard stuff, so I settled for a shot of Amaretto de Saronna. Cruzanne ordered tequila – Jose Cuervo, the good stuff – and a lime. Costas made this funny face, and then asked her if she wanted a real treat. To drink tequila like the islanders drink it. Who could refuse that offer? So he pulls out an orange slice, sprinkles some cinnamon on it and sets a shot glass of Jose Cuervo next to it. The instructions are: drink all of the shot, bite into the orange. Cruzanne does. Please understand that Cruz and I have bartended in Chicago for years. That tequila is a drink we know, and know well. That it would take a lot to surprise us. That evening I saw a look on her face that I had never seen before. It was a look of pure ecstasy! I quickly pushed back my drink and said, "give me what she is having". I quickly imbibed. Man! Now this is how to drink tequila. It tasted like candy with a kick. Incredible. From what I remember, we drank an awful lot of shots that night with Costas and Dimitri.

Dimitri insisted we go to the place that is almost like Disneyland – the Zanzibar. His two friends, Charlotte and Thomas, are the owners. We went, Cruz did not stay. She took a walk home. I played a game of darts and had another drink (or two). That night Dimitri walked me home.

Nick, Joan & Micah

Nick and his wife Joan and their friend Micah are from Holland. The great thing about working overseas is you get one month a year vacation. These three traveled the Greek Islands and ended up in Antiparos. They stayed at the campground. We didn’t make it to the campground. From the stories these guys told their memories of the campground were falling asleep rather drunk and then up and out early to the beaches. There are showers there and that is really all I know about it. These Dutch had a huge appetite for partying. So did I when I was in my early 20’s. We met them on a Tuesday night, at the bar at the Mouriago. That night Dimitri served me mackerel, rice, ice cream and of course, greek coffee. As the habit is, you have a drink afterwards. We perched on the bar stools and listened to Dimitri tell stories. And we drank. There were these three young people laughing and dancing and very very tan. Nick could have been a Norse god – tall, thin, blond hair and sparkling eyes. Joan had long brown hair and was dressed in this fantastic black top and pants. Her sense of humor kept us all laughing. Micah was the poster girl for Holland. Blonde, perky and very witty. The three of them were great friends and often traveled together. The music that night graduated from soft Greek music to rock and roll. I looked up during the song by Joe Cocker "you can keep your hat on" to see Nick on the bar (yes, on top of the bar) dancing. Then he took his shirt off. Swiveled his hips. The girls were roaring. I decided I would tip him. So I took out the only bill I had left on me. A 100 drachma note. That equals about 30 cents. And put it inside his shorts. I still get emails from Nick about my cheap tip